Fashion
hold the world
Large international meetings give voice to this trend.
Besides solar panels, wind power and cars that run on biofuels parade also the world of fashion.
majors now is the garment industry which weave a sustainable and increasingly relying on organic clothing.
Call ecological or ethical fashion is gaining ground in this industry that employs more than 40 million people around the world and move $ 350,000 million annually. For the designer
Elena García is common sense.
"You just have to take into account any step in the manufacturing of clothing, because knowing what we know now and the damage we are doing to the planet, I can do things without thinking," he explains.
"We sell the idea of \u200b\u200beating less and better. We do not understand fashion if not linked to fair trade and ecology," he says, for its part, Pepe Barguna, creator of Fearless Mu (IM), the first English brand betting with 100% organic cotton and fair trade. Big brands
most influential companies in the textile industry are incorporating organic fabrics in their collections. "Biocotton" in C & A or "Levi's ® Eco" in Levi's are some of the names begin to sound between the big brands.
Multinationals have much influence on consumers.
In 2003, Nike began using organic cotton in its clothes.
Later, Britain's Marks & Spencer, H & M, Italian and U.S. GAP Armani and Timberland began to worry that their products were more sustainable.
giant Zara, the English group Inditex, marketed its first organic cotton shirts in 2006. They have since made more than 11 million garments under this premise and on behalf of eco-efficient actions are changing their Corporate Social Responsibility.
Meanwhile, Marks & Spencer sold over 600,000 garments made from cotton, organic wool and flax in the first half of 2008.
"On one hand it is important for the scope, volume and reputation with multinationals in the market when it comes to channel people.'s Okay if they carry the trend towards ethical fashion we will benefit everyone, "says Barguna.
" Now they've taken the step to engagement marketing campaigns and are becoming aware of their activities can not make mistakes because people will be looking for can not afford to find someone who are not doing, "says the designer.
With or without a marketing strategy, multinationals are being pushed to change their ways, and walkways and large gatherings of world fashion, as the Ethical Fashion Show Esthet in Paris or in London Fashion Week of the English capital, this trend is open space and hear more and more to its designers.
"Sustainable Revolution?
Future Concept Lab, a research institute specializing in marketing and consumer trends, says that we are experiencing a shift comparable with the advent of industrial societies.
Now the revolution is moving towards sustainability
Francesco Morace, sociologist.
"Just as the revolution came hygienic and universal parameters were established to protect the health or association with the revolution began to defend the dignity of workers, now the revolution is in the direction of sustainability," says Francesco Morace sociologist and President of the Institute.
"Precisely because it is part of a broader context, the phenomenon is not attributable to the logic of fashion and therefore will not have a cyclical nature, it will become a new benchmark of quality, necessary and indisputable, "said Morace, for whom eco fashion is one of the new paradigms to deal with the changing scenario of the crisis.
100% natural cotton, silk, organic wool and bamboo are just some of the natural materials that predominate in this fashion.
receive the name "bio" because throughout its life cycle have a lower impact on the environment. Grown no pesticides and no chemicals, so that pest control is done with predators and natural pesticides. Neither GM nor use artificial fertilizers.
This design Elena García's skirt is made of bamboo and silk top organic (photo courtesy of Elena García)
international labels such as Flo, Oeko-Tex, Naturtextil, Ecolabel, Sustainable Eko textile and Made in Green certify that these procedures are carried out within the parameters of fair and sustainable.
The environmental group Greenpeace warns that most of the environmental impact of the textile industry occurs during making processes.
Although it represents only 2.5% of the planet's arable land, traditional cotton production accounts for 25% of the use of fertilizers and chemical pesticides 10% of the world. Something that directly affects the health of farmers and their families.
The World Health Organization states that are poisoned each year two million people by direct or indirect exposure to pesticides.
certified organic cotton currently represents only 0.1% of total cotton produced in the world. Reviews
But fashion is also finding numerous ethical obstacles along the way as the price, marketing and aesthetics.
In an industry where currently prevailing renew the closet, buy cheap clothes and offers of 2x1 is very difficult to compete with non-organic products.
For the consumer can double the price of organic clothing against another is not. And while, to the employer the cost is also higher for a kilo of organic cotton costs three times more than the traditional.
Certify success at every stage of manufacture of clothing is slow. (Photo courtesy of IM)
On the other hand, the barrier in the marketing appears when certifying that they are observing all stages of the chain. This complicates and makes the work much slower because it is necessary to analyze everything.
And finally, the dilemma ethics versus aesthetics. Although Intrepid Mu and Elena García decided to speak the language of the market and pushed for quality clothing, comfortable design, this trend has to do much in the style, and there are still many organic clothing with which not all world feels identified.
"To advance in this sense, ethics should not punish its aesthetic content," notes Francesco Morace. Real price
In order to improve conditions of workers caring ethical fashion during the manufacturing process of the garments not violate labor rights.
Women represent 80% of workers in the textile industry (© Pablo Tosco / Oxfam)
"When people think something is expensive is because it has reference to something that is not real . When a shirt always has cost 12 euros and now it is 3 it is clear that something is wrong in the production process, "says the creator of Fearless Mu
" You have to pay to get that shirt your hands and you have to pay all those people who work in each phase. It is important that the consumer will ask all these things, "he adds.
Challenges
no demand no supply. Hence the last word and perhaps most important of the consumer. The marketing strategies and major celebrities have a role important in this regard as it can make a product moves from overnight to be desirable.
According to Morace, the key to change is to understand sustainability in terms of emotional experience and not ideology. "It takes customers to experience the change as their personal enrichment, "says the sociologist.
MU button reflects the philosophy Eating less and better. (Photo courtesy of IM)
Elena Garcia is fundamental to the customer is demanding to know what they are buying and what you buy, as many people act out of ignorance. "As people get more information about the products they buy will change consumption. People need choices and know what they are buying," he argues.
"Hopefully come a day when you do not need to put labels or stamps because of course respect the environment and workers," concludes Barguna.
We are all consumers of clothing, so the future and sustainability of this industry we write each one with our attitude.
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